Bomber of the Month: September
Amager Rye Porter
By: André DiMattia
Published: 9/25/2014
Regular Price:
$10.99
Sale Price:
$7.49
ABV:
8.5
Beer Advocate:
90
Rate Beer:
99
While Rye is seemingly all the rage in American brewing, this grain has a long history within the Danish scene. Quite a fundamental part of the culture and one that defines flavors across the culinary landscape, rye is distinctly particular as a flavor. Tasting of grass and herbal mint tones but still having a woody, somewhat walnut sort of bitterness, rye seems to have been perfectly suitable for an application to beer. While yet another placement of interest that the Danes know a bit too well, the porters and stouts coming from Denmark have tones and characteristics all their own. Roasted flavors are pronounced and lean almost on the charred and acrid side. These blistered flavors are supported by a balancing semi-sweet chocolate tone that gives deep satisfaction (think of boldly smoked bbq that glistens with a sticky glaze of sweetness and how the way its abrasive flavor easily take one’s senses over). Danish dark beer and rye malts, it almost doesn’t get much more appropriate.
The Amager brewery is widely respected by countless contributors to the movement of current micro-styled beers. Mikkeller cut his teeth on their system while the polarizing brother at Evil Twin once formulated oak aged creations, even Shaun Hill of Hill Farmstead fame conceptualized new recipes with the Amager crew. While not the ultimate defining force for Danish beer, they certainly are a major contributor to the history and high status of importance within Scandinavian beer culture.
On to the Tasting Notes:
Amager’s Rye Porter pours with full bubbles that collect with a striking russet tone of deep brown. The nearly black liquid rests beneath the frothy carbonation and entices with a sleek onyx appearance. Amazingly fresh aromas of cut grass and wild herbs emerge from the glass that somewhat contradict what would have been expected in a beer that is so dark. Anise, molasses, sesame and dill are pronounced but met with the typical Porter presence of cocoa, caramel and coffee. The rye isn’t out of place in this beer, instead; it contributes a very focusing dynamic that singularly separates it from just about any other on the market.
The first flavor of the beer holds as much intensity as was detected on the aromas; radish tops, citrus, lemon balm, sourdough and spicy peppers hit the palate with a wonderful uniqueness of character. Very bold in their presence but the flavors settle and allow for all the chocolate, nutty and baked bread undertones to come to light. The beer has a richness but one that isn’t by way of sticky sweetness. The caramelized edge is subdued beneath the nutty, herbal and roasted tones, all of which add up to define the composition of the beer’s nature. Amager’s Rye Porter is boldly layered with memorable nuances that give a glimpse to how dark beers are crafted a world away.
Food Pairing:
One can’t drink this beer without an image of the ubiquitous Rugbrød coming to mind. The famous Danish rye bread began the initial thought process for the Rye Porter in the first place and it would only be appropriate to have a small offering alongside. The grain would unify throughout while the highly umami flavors of the sourdough would align in a most singular way. To contrast the chewy tones of the beer, pickled items or bold cheeses could stand up and make for an interesting interplay. Smoked salmon, spicy shrimp or steamed clams would bring out a mid-palate mineral note that only seafood could find. Stewed tomatoes, long braised beans or deeply cooked leafy greens are also suitable; add a unctuous piece of hearty lamb to really see the sparks fly and drive home a pairing not soon to be forgotten.