Bomber of the Month: September
Jolly Pumpkin: Maracaibo Especial
By: André DiMattia
Published: 9/8/2014
Regular Price:
$15.99
Sale Price:
$11.99
Sale End:
9/30/2014
ABV:
7.5
Rate Beer:
98
The legendary Michigan brewery of Jolly Pumpkin is perhaps one of the singular defining entities when discussing the important status of American breweries focusing on all things wild. One of the very first breweries in the country to craft beers that all see time in oak barrels, Jolly Pumpkin set out to define a vision that was all but scarce. Their method for creation allows for a wide family of beers that all share a similar 'wild' character from their house cultures of bacteria and Brettanomyces yeast. Intricate and varied but still amazingly structured and full of life, Jolly Pumpkin's beers are singular experiences that have very few rivals.
The signature flavors and style of Jolly Pumpkin blossom with extend bottle aging (one is almost required to allow for at least 3 months of waiting before opening). At the 6 month mark, the wild yeast used for bottle conditioning is fully present offering distinct earthy aromas of hay and wild herbs in addition to that quality simply described as 'funky'. (The date for the beer reviewed came from a November 2013 batch).
Have your glass at the ready; JP's beers are always excited to emerge from their glass containers with a bubbling fury of energetic foam. Floral with marmalade and preserved fruit notes, some woody tones with a slight tang of cherry and a vinous sort comparison. The cinnamon used is welcoming with a zesty spiciness that works wonderfully well with the wild yeast's tropical and slightly gamey qualities. Sourdough bread, currants, gape leaves and black tea give a deep range of aromas that entice as only oak aged beer can.
On to the Tasting Notes:
The first sensation hits the palate with tart cherries and dried fruits. Concentrated and expressively tart, the funky side of the beer immediately builds mid-palate with woody notes that are as heady as they are complex. Leather and charred oak, figs and toasted nuts, cranberries and cinnamon sticks are all present with waves of flavor. The sour edge of the beer holds though and leaves a pucker on the tongue while a spicy sort of bitterness lasts long after the liquid is swallowed. The range of sensations and the variety of flavors are wide and only contribute to the beer's overall mystic. Intricately layered but not overly blatant as something that can easily be defined; simply another offering from Jolly Pumpkin that keeps us guessing.
Food Pairing:
Brilliant with anything containing an edge of roast; be it assorted root vegetables, whole chickens, thick slices of hearty squash or a glistening rack of ribs. The natural dark flavors of the beer together with the added level of acidity would bring just the range of qualities needed for anything with a degree of char. The earthy and umami depth of dry-aged beef could unify with Maracaibo on the same level that a dusty and tannin rich bottle of Bordeaux might. This is another beer that wouldn't stray from the sharp flavors of garlic or onions, the more concentrated the better; French onion soup, braised garlic smeared on toast or Middle eastern lamb filled onion rolls. Grab a special wheel of ultra-rip washed rind cheese; a beer like this needs a memorable partner with the same degree of intensity.