Brasserie du Blaugies Saison d'Epeautre
Bomber of the Month: May
By: André DiMattia
Published: 5/9/2013
Regular Price: $12.99
Sale Price: $10.99
Sale End: 5/31/2013
ABV: 6
Beer Advocate: 89
Rate Beer: 95
To be interested in the craft of beer fermentation within today’s world of choices can be particularly challenging as much as it can be undeniably satisfying. Never has there been a better time to gain an understating of the individual styles that are linked with tradition from all the classic beer producing countries. Modern brewers have access to a variety of literature that describes these styles, many of them nearly being lost, with enough detail for them to once again be brought to life. While some beers are only enjoyed though educated guesses, there are still many producers that have strived to carry on the traditions of their area which only allows us to experience what these beers might have tasted like many decades ago. One of the most iconic styles that represent the fundamentals of beer born out of necessity is the much-varied Saison Ale.
The Saison beer style is one of the most easy to understand from a conceptualization standpoint and yet one that is full of individual mutations. It is a style that is growing in popularity with the casual beer drinker to the point of blurring the overall essence from focus. These were beers that were distinctly part of the livelihood from the houses in which they came. Farmers along the boarder of France and Belgium didn’t simply create these beverages because of the enjoyment that was had from the liquid but because the liquid was something that allowed for survival though the harsh seasons. If the local water wasn’t fit for consumption, heat and fermentation changed that, bottles of beer were now added to the list of provisional items such as meat, produce and cheese that helped give the family profits for the land. While it can be difficult to find the honesty that represents what a Saison was created from, there are a few remaining producers that still dedicate with an approach as it was in times past.
The Brasserie de Blaugies, located off a small road nearly directly where Belgium meets the boarder of France, might be the world’s most classic producers of the Farmhouse Saison. Run and operated completely by family members, the beers the Blaugies are created with a similar passion as those that came from the focused hands of generations past. Rustic and full of subtle tones, these are beers that are more about the soft moments of elegance in the finish than in the sharp slices of intensity. Their range is limited but highly dedicated, only five beers are made on a continual basis. The Saison d’Epeautre is not only a standout for the family but one that should be on the top lists for what a traditional Saison can be.
On to the Tasting Notes:
The name describes the large amounts of the ancient spelt grain that is used in the recipe. The spelt (Epeautre) was planted across the land hundred of years ago and would have been highly common in the classic Saison in rural Belgium. Once the beer’s cork is unleashed, enormous bubbles appear and creep up into the neck of the bottle before being transferred into an awaiting glass. The foam cascades and rests upon itself, dissolving with lingering arms of carbonation that clench onto the walls of the vessel. Earthy, dusty and full of honeyed aromas, the beer is expressive with yeasty notes and herbal tones. Not overly barnyard driven, the aroma is rather that of one experienced while smelling the fresh air within the meadows farm from any large city. Dandelions, hey bails, sun baked stones, wood and air cured meats are some of the images that keep coming to mind with further sniffs. The Epeautre expresses the qualities of the land from which it was created.
While the first taste is heavy with carbonation to the degree of it washing out the palate, those that are had mid way though the bottle engage the drinker with marvelous delight. Highly drying and bold with nuances from the grassy hops, the beer is focused heavily on the flavor of the spelt grain and comforts to the degree that fresh hearth baked bread does. The Spelt shows its self with a warming energy of dried citrus and tree bark while a rounded fruit flavor not too far from poached pears and quince gives variation. Not at all candied or sweet, the remarkably dry finish quenches the thirst while leaving a deep desire for yet another sip. This is a beer that does not demand your attention; rather, it extends a hand and quietly asks for a shared moment.
Food Pairing:
With a foot in the old world, this is a beverage that is happy to pair with simple picnic flavors just as it would with hearty stews and roasted game. The woody and dry flavors are just what washed rind cheeses need to be soothed and calmed. Their salty levels are softened and the palate is cleansed after each sip. Vegetables are all invited; spicy fresh radishes hit with a touch of lemon and smeared with butter is a treat that seems to stop time, lightly grilled spring onions tossed with fresh peas and mint (with optional ham…) is more than just a side and even the difficult asparagus would meet the rye like flavors of the spelt with a unique partnership. Game meats and offal are options though they will still be a bit bold, there is no sweetness in the beer to blind these flavors, this is a pairing for the dedicated. Simple roast chicken and rosemary potatoes would make for a tame but still insanely delicious variation. The joy is in the rustic.