Bomber of the Month: February
St. Bernardus Abt. 12
By: André DiMattia
Published: 2/2/2012
Regular Price: $11.99
Sale Price: $9.99
Sale End: 2/29/2012
ABV: 10.5
Beer Advocate: A
Rate Beer: 100
The depiction of an enthusiastic monk, raising a full goblet filled with a frothy dark beverage, is known throughout the world and can be seen on the labeled beers from the Brouwerij Saint Bernardus. This image is not far off from the history in which this brewery is rooted. Once a farm that was the basis of cheese production established by relocated members of a French Abbey Commity, the area and ground in which the original structures were built came to be known as the “ Refuge Notre Dame De St. Bernard”. It wasn’t until after World War II that the production of beer actually began. With the obvious hardships that were at hand, another local brewery needed a way of brewing more beer so that commercial sales could begin and raise money. This is none other than the most infamous of any Belgium breweries, the St. Sixtus Abdij or Westvleteren.
The monks of Westvleteren wanted to brew beer that could be purchased by the public and the only way to do this was to create a brewery on site of the “Refuge Notre Dame St. Bernard” or as it became; the Brouwerij St. Bernardus. The beers of Westvleteren were not being brewed under license at the St. Bernardus brewery. The agreement was in effect until 1992 when the legal term for “Trappistenbier” came about. This required all beers that were to be labeled as Trappist to be brewed within the walls of their respected monastery.
The St. Bernardus Brewery was not harmed as the few decades of brewing other people’s recipes gave great insight to technique and balance of beers with so much weight. The Abt. 12 quickly became the most desired beer by way of the marvelous strength and it’s undeterred intensity. Named as a homage to the original Abbotts of the time and the 12 remarking back to an era where the beer was actually brewed to reach 12% alcohol. These days Abt. 12 is around 10.5% and has a quality all it’s own in comparisons to others beers of similar nature.
On to the Tasting Notes:
While the categorization of Belgian beers can sometimes be a trivial effort, the Abt. 12 from Saint Bernardus is easily one of the most easy to recognize of any Belgian Dark Ale/Quadruple. With a rich dark purple color, a creamy head of bubbles that will last well into tomorrow night and a texture not too far from port, this is a beer that shows it’s tricks and leaves all speechless in awe.
The second fermentation within the bottle gives the beer an untamed amount of carbonation that most certainly needs to be poured in an appropriate wide mouthed glass. Dark at core with burnt sugar colors striking around the edges, the beer fills the glass with a confidence not usually associated to other beverages. The beer is rich with aromas similar to rock candy, dark grapes, prunes, treacle cake and other decadent indulgences. The yeasty underbelly is felt but only after becoming accustomed to the heady layers of richness given off from the first few sniffs.
The first sip of Abt. 12 coats the mouth, lingers on the tongue and sooths the throat with a lovely texture that is comforting to the senses. While having a rich dessert based focus of flavors, there is a sharp prickle similar to black pepper that offers an enticing counterpoint. Toffee, toasted marshmallows, fruitcake, figs, maple and rich vanilla custard start things off and then a wave of toasted bread, cracked pepper, poached pears, and spiced cakes come to finish the flavor that ends on the dry end. With all the initial richness, the flavor of Abt. 12 is quite varied and even finishes very dry in comparison to the other well-known beers of the style (Rochefort 10, La Trappe Quad and even the mighty Westvleteren).
Food Pairing:
The hearty aspects of Abt. 12 makes a paring of comparable nature quite fitting; long braised meats, roasted duck, French onion soup and high fat content chesses. Going big is the way to be as many subtle foods will easily fall victim to the beer’s dark side and be overwhelmed with the abundant amount of flavors. High fat foods such as cassoulet, gamey dishes similar to kidney pie and thick béarnaise sauce laden steaks would create such a complementary pairing that the typical “Left Bank” choice or ”Meritage” blend would become meaningless in comparison. Chocolate would be the other delight within the food world for a delicious food/beverage combination, Abt 12 has a wide range of flavors and bittersweet chocolate is a delight of a combination.
Given the history that the St. Bernardus brewery has transcended, to look at that jolly monk on each label of Abt. 12 and not think of a certain defining character of tradition through dedication is nearly impossible. There are accounts of bottles that date beyond 30 years in age but are still pulsing with life. These beers are created because they can last the test of time and the trials of life. Saint Bernardus Abbott 12 is the closest we in America will get to the legendary beers of the Trappiest brewery of Westvleteren and yet, there is not a longing desire for what else is beyond once the first sip is taken. Regardless of what one may know or hope to obtain, this is simply delicious beer.